Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  


Don't forget... With the upgrades you can change the theme in your profile.
The "Original" theme is available again. Choose "Old SurvivalistsSite Theme (2.0) for the "Original" theme.

The links above will open in a new window.

Would you like to advertise on For more information email

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Canuck In Denver

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 245
General BOV Discussion / Re: New BOT (Bug Out Trailer)
« on: July 17, 2018, 09:00:17 PM »
I'll have to look at e track, thanks.

General BOV Discussion / New BOT (Bug Out Trailer)
« on: July 11, 2018, 10:45:16 PM »
A while back I got a line on a very well maintained 5x8 V nose trailer, the V adds two feet to the length. It has only the one door on the rear, which I prefer to having one on the side. Inside width is a bit less than 5 feet but it is 6 feet at the walls and two inches higher down the center.

It was a construction trailer with roof racks, so I have a place to put canoes or what not. It did have shelves on one side, but I didn't like them so I took them out (they were too wide and wouldn't allow for a balanced load). I still have to put new shelves in, 12 inches wide on each side so I will still have nearly 3 feet between them. Originally I was going to space the shelves at 18 inches, but I've decided to put them at 2 feet. That will give me 3 shelves on each side. That will give me plenty of room to keep all of my camping (aka bug out) gear and still have room for other items should I have to bug out.

The old bug out trailer will have the enclosure removed so it won't be so top heavy and will just be a mini pickup box trailer, maybe I'll put on a cover of some sort... or maybe not.

Hit up the flea market a couple of weekends ago, was looking for axes again :) I found a no name 3 pound 9.5 oz axe and a Plumb Hudson Bay style axe (or hatchet) coming in at 1 pound 11.7 oz. I've been wanting a Hudson Bay pattern around 2 pounds and found one. I got both for $15, far less than the Plumb is worth on it's own. I ordered two 19 inch handles and a 24 inch handle. The Plumb will get a 19 inch handle, the other will either go on the Collins I picked up earlier or the Mann. The 3 pound 9.5 oz one will get either a 24 or 28 inch handle, but the place I get my handles was out of 28 inch handles. I may try another manufacturer.

Initially I couldn't tell what brand the Plumb was, but I figured for $7.50 it was worth picking up since I could tell it had good steel. After some wire wheel time I could make out the Plumb logo and was VERY happy.

I normally use Beaver-Tooth Handle, but I may try House Handle since they have 28 inch handles in stock... but House doesn't publish their shipping rates, but do say they only charge what they are charged. Maybe I'll call of email House to get a ball park shipping cost.

I still want some axes in the 4 to 6 pound range to complete my collection of sizes. Maybe I'll even find a double bit I like.

I can see a battery powered grinder working. I have friends that have a lot of battery powered tools, 20V Dewalt. I did notice that the circular saw had only a couple of minutes per battery. I suppose that would work fine for many things, and would be great to have.

Good info on the rust remover.

I like linseed oil for wood handles. I use it for axe handles and other wood handles.

Most of my tools are ready for the worst. There are a few things that aren't in top shape, like my Stihl cut off saw that was bought as a project to get into top shape - it works, just not top shape.

I pick up a lot of my US made tools second hand from garage and estate sales as well as thrift stores, etc. A lot of times those tools have some rust on them, so I'm looking at chemical ways to remove the rust. There are a few such as naval jelly, vinegar and some other rust remover solutions. I'm going to try one of the rust remover solutions to see how it works. Having some solution of one type or another to remove rust is a good idea for long term life.

If you have multiples of tools, perhaps some grease or vacuum sealing some of those multiples would be a good idea.

Yeah, it is a good score.

I've played with the carb some more, it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

It's also good for salvage and scrounging after everything goes to hell. I will give it a workout getting rid of stumps once it's working.

Other Items / Re: Wiggy's sleeping bag
« on: June 12, 2018, 10:26:44 PM » They are made in Grand Junction, Colorado.

I heard about them in the mid to late 80s. The US Navy SEALs were buying them with their own money because they worked as advertised and when wet, there was a write up in a magazine I was reading (don't remember which one). Over the years I've heard from a few people who had them and really liked them. They are also standard equipment in all US Airforce planes as survival equipment. They have a NSN and can be requested by any US service member.

He's sold quite a few to Canadian military as well, personal purchase again because they work. I think there may even be a Canadian stock number for them, but I'm not sure.

Several of his products are in wide use, including his hypothermia bags which are used in Canadian SAR operations and others.

I also have one of his "jacket liners" which was my first purchase to test the insulation, the same insulation is used in all Wiggy's products. Late last fall I bought a parka since my old Canadian military parka and my Cabela's down parka were getting on in years and needing replacing. I did a test of all three parkas and the Wiggy's won, I took into account the cold spot in the Cabela's. The Canadian military parka's issue is the shell - seams are starting to fray but the liner still works as well as it ever did (says made in 1979, I bought it about 30 years ago), for a nearly 40 year old parka I'm impressed with how well it's survived.

Other Items / Wiggy's sleeping bag
« on: June 09, 2018, 12:19:38 AM »
The other weekend some friends and I had our annual camping trip, a bit shorter than usual. but still some time away. I bought a Wiggy's "Slumber Bag" rated for 50F since I wanted a summer bag. I slept in my tent as usual, on a cot with a thin foam mat instead of my usual memory foam pad. It rained for much of the weekend and it was damp at night when it wasn't raining. The temps were a little under 50F.

The first night I climbed in with a T-shirt and was a bit chilled, not cold but not toasty warm. Sleeping on my side it was my upper back, shoulder, chest area that was chilled while the rest was warm. I figure it was partially the open top since the bag doesn't have a hood and partially being a bit under the rating.

The next day it was rainy and a bit below the previous night's temp. Late in the afternoon I decided to take a nap and skipped the T-shirt. Not having the T shirt made an improvement, if the temp had been a degree higher I would have been toasty.

That night it was at best 45F when I crawled into bed (way past midnight) and I decided to grab a light fleece blanket I had and keep it over the sleeping bag. I made sure to really tuck it in around my shoulders. The fleece was a bit much, I was a bit past toasty, but I slept well anyway.

The sleeping bag is thin and light. In the compression sack it will be about the size of a basket ball. A thin twin sized fleece blanket is about the same weight and the same size in the compression sack. The sleeping bag is 36x84 with a listed weight of 2.75 pounds. My Coleman that has a similar rating and is 40x84 weighs quite a bit more and is much thicker.

All-in-all the temp claims were accurate. The insulation in all Wiggy's products will keep you warm even when wet, in fact the insulation will dry with your body heat. With everything else damp around me the sleeping bag was nice and dry when I woke up. I washed the sleeping bag when it got here, and I washed it after my camping trip, the insulation stayed right were it is suppose to unlike every other sleeping bag I've washed and I don't buy cheap sleeping bags.

I can say that I'm happy with the Wiggy's summer sleeping bag (Slumber Bag) and I will be buying one of his FTRSS systems for colder temps. The price is good for the quality and the lifetime warranty. Being able to wash the sleeping bags as often as I want and not have the insulation move is a major bonus.

Welcome back!

I tuned the carb today, screwed in the High and Low all the way and then adjusted them out 1/4 turn. It didn't quite idle, but better. So it adjusted them out to a 1/2 turn and it idled just fine. I checked in with one of the Stihl dealers in town and they wanted $17 for the switch, instead I got one off eBay for $5 delivered. I also added a new O ring to the fuel cap which fixed a very minor leak. The Stihl dealre did have 14 inch steel abrasive discs for $9 so I picked one up.

Messed around with the saw today. I pulled the carb and cleaned it up, did a general cleaning and put in new gas. Once I got some gas cycled through it started up. It would only stay running if I had the trigger held part or fully down, it doesn't idle. I'll have to adjust the tuning on the carb to get it running like it should. The safety switch on the top of the handle is broken clean with the handle so that will need to be replaced. I'll check in with a local Stihl dealer to check on the price of the part and how much they will charge me to install it.

A few years ago Minnesota started putting cable and post barriers in the median of the Interstate from Fargo east. The reasoning they out forward was to keep vehicles from crossing from one side to the other through the large area between lanes. On one side it is maybe four feet from the edge of the inside lane, on the other it is 16 or so feet. The past few winters has shown that they ain't that effective and mostly they just destroy cars that do actually make it through. It was a LOT of money for something that rarely happens, since the main time for people to hit the median is in winter... when there is so much snow in the median that they don't go far before getting stuck.

As they were putting them up I joked it was to keep people from turning around when they're bugging out once everything has gone to crap, and a guy would need a gas powered cut off saw to cut the cables and the steel posts.

Well, I recently got one locally for a steal of a price (under $50) for an older Stihl cut off saw. Yeah, the same ones you see construction crews using to cut concrete and asphalt.  I looked it over before getting it, and it starts but doesn't stay running. With those it could be the air filter or it could be the carb. In either case maximum cost is about $50 for a new carb. It hasn't been used much in I don't know how long, so chances are that a simple carb cleaning or just some good fuel in it will have it running in no time.

So now, no matter what the obstruction is I can cut it up and remove it. Plus I have one hell of a saw for cutting metal or dealing with tree stumps around the yard.

I think I'll keep a multi purpose blade on there that will allow me to cut wood, concrete, steel and anything else I need.

After two tries making a handle for the little hatchet head I had laying around I finally got it, well 99% anyway. I used the bottom end of an axe handle that I took of one I bought that was in rough shape for the most part. The first time around it wasn't quite right and I ended up cutting it off and drilling and hammering it out of the hatchet head. I made sure before starting the first time that I had an extra 2 inches just in case. The main problem I ran into was due to the inside of the eye having two scallops on each side, I ended up having to file in grooves for them. The handle is actually a bit lower than the top of the eye, but given that this is for very light duty chores I figure it will work well enough.

Using files took quite a while the first time around. The second time around I used files just for the initial sizing at the top and then a new (to me 6 x 48 inch Craftsman / King Seeley from about 1950) belt sander to finish the rest. If I'd taken 1/8 inch more it would have fit flush with the top of the hatchet.

I'm sure the handle isn't perfect, but it will work for what I need it too. And it's the first time I tried to make an axe handle, even if it was just putting on a new eye section. I looked all over for a handle and wasn't able to find any that I really liked or where small enough, and I hit some good web sites of tool handle makers. There are no markings on the hatchet head so I have no idea where it was made or by who. I've had it kicking around for a few years and it was only recently that I decided to use it for something.

I want to make a belt sheath for the hatchet, then it can be worn on a belt or just kept in a pocket in the pack.

General Emergency Preparedness and Survival Discussion / Re: Bushcraft
« on: April 26, 2018, 10:07:28 PM »
Got my last piece of cooking gear in today, a GSI Glacier stainless steel 8 cup coffee percolator, the perfect size for camping.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 245