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 on: July 11, 2018, 10:45:16 PM 
Started by Canuck In Denver - Last post by Canuck In Denver
A while back I got a line on a very well maintained 5x8 V nose trailer, the V adds two feet to the length. It has only the one door on the rear, which I prefer to having one on the side. Inside width is a bit less than 5 feet but it is 6 feet at the walls and two inches higher down the center.

It was a construction trailer with roof racks, so I have a place to put canoes or what not. It did have shelves on one side, but I didn't like them so I took them out (they were too wide and wouldn't allow for a balanced load). I still have to put new shelves in, 12 inches wide on each side so I will still have nearly 3 feet between them. Originally I was going to space the shelves at 18 inches, but I've decided to put them at 2 feet. That will give me 3 shelves on each side. That will give me plenty of room to keep all of my camping (aka bug out) gear and still have room for other items should I have to bug out.

The old bug out trailer will have the enclosure removed so it won't be so top heavy and will just be a mini pickup box trailer, maybe I'll put on a cover of some sort... or maybe not.

 on: July 11, 2018, 10:37:19 PM 
Started by Canuck In Denver - Last post by Canuck In Denver
Hit up the flea market a couple of weekends ago, was looking for axes again :) I found a no name 3 pound 9.5 oz axe and a Plumb Hudson Bay style axe (or hatchet) coming in at 1 pound 11.7 oz. I've been wanting a Hudson Bay pattern around 2 pounds and found one. I got both for $15, far less than the Plumb is worth on it's own. I ordered two 19 inch handles and a 24 inch handle. The Plumb will get a 19 inch handle, the other will either go on the Collins I picked up earlier or the Mann. The 3 pound 9.5 oz one will get either a 24 or 28 inch handle, but the place I get my handles was out of 28 inch handles. I may try another manufacturer.

Initially I couldn't tell what brand the Plumb was, but I figured for $7.50 it was worth picking up since I could tell it had good steel. After some wire wheel time I could make out the Plumb logo and was VERY happy.

I normally use Beaver-Tooth Handle, but I may try House Handle since they have 28 inch handles in stock... but House doesn't publish their shipping rates, but do say they only charge what they are charged. Maybe I'll call of email House to get a ball park shipping cost.

I still want some axes in the 4 to 6 pound range to complete my collection of sizes. Maybe I'll even find a double bit I like.

 on: July 07, 2018, 11:39:52 PM 
Started by Canuck In Denver - Last post by Canuck In Denver
I can see a battery powered grinder working. I have friends that have a lot of battery powered tools, 20V Dewalt. I did notice that the circular saw had only a couple of minutes per battery. I suppose that would work fine for many things, and would be great to have.

 on: July 07, 2018, 11:35:53 PM 
Started by Hiddenone - Last post by Canuck In Denver
Good info on the rust remover.

I like linseed oil for wood handles. I use it for axe handles and other wood handles.

 on: July 06, 2018, 11:42:54 AM 
Started by Canuck In Denver - Last post by Darren
Was watching a you tube video on motorcycle lefts in England. A battery operated hand grinder with a cut off wheel seems to be a favorite among thieves. They were really quick as well.
Not exactly following the thread up it is compact and works.

 on: July 06, 2018, 10:49:35 AM 
Started by Hiddenone - Last post by Hiddenone
   Glad you mentioned rusty tools. I started out trying a rust removal product you can pickup at auto parts stores or China Mart. $30 a gallon and it worked but did discolor the steel on tools. Changed to white vinegar and if you let it set 24 hours for normal rust or 48 hours or longer for really bad rust it works even better and a gallon is around $2. I then neutralize the acid in the vinegar with a solution  of baking soda in water. About 1/2 cup per gallon will do just fine. I do always make sure I scrub the tool down go with paint thinner to remove all the grease and crud I can first before the vinegar bath.

   After it is dried off I take it over to a very course 10 inch wire wheel and clean it up. Some tools need to be disassembled before this step. Once it has been cleaned I take the tool to a smaller course wheel and then a find wheel to finish the cleaning process. For those hard to get spots I use an assortment of small wire brushes and get to the rust. If you want you can then touch it up on a 1 inch sander with different grits of sand paper and even polish it on a buffing wheel. Makes them look better than new in most cases.

   To finish them off I always rub on a coat of clear shellac to protect them and seal the pores in the steel to prevent rust/ If you choose to do any painting on them you can just paint over the shellac and go from there. I did find that once they have dried some sitting them on a rack on the top of the wood burner will bake the paint on and make the finish harder than before.

  For wooden handles you can scrape them with a razor blade to remove any old finish or gunk on them. Sand it with 200 grit sand paper to make them smooth. You can then stain handles or better yet don't and just use a good hand rubbed linseed oil finish on them. I put at least 3 coats on and let it soak in and then another coat everyday for a week until I am happy with the finish. You should always get them an extra coat about once every 2 months to keep the wood from drying out.

 on: July 05, 2018, 11:25:01 PM 
Started by Hiddenone - Last post by Canuck In Denver
Most of my tools are ready for the worst. There are a few things that aren't in top shape, like my Stihl cut off saw that was bought as a project to get into top shape - it works, just not top shape.

I pick up a lot of my US made tools second hand from garage and estate sales as well as thrift stores, etc. A lot of times those tools have some rust on them, so I'm looking at chemical ways to remove the rust. There are a few such as naval jelly, vinegar and some other rust remover solutions. I'm going to try one of the rust remover solutions to see how it works. Having some solution of one type or another to remove rust is a good idea for long term life.

If you have multiples of tools, perhaps some grease or vacuum sealing some of those multiples would be a good idea.

 on: July 05, 2018, 11:17:13 PM 
Started by Canuck In Denver - Last post by Canuck In Denver
Yeah, it is a good score.

I've played with the carb some more, it needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

It's also good for salvage and scrounging after everything goes to hell. I will give it a workout getting rid of stumps once it's working.

 on: July 04, 2018, 09:28:15 AM 
Started by Hiddenone - Last post by Hiddenone
    As we all our working for a common goal of being prepared for whatever comes our way tools will be at the top of all or lists. It doesn't mater what the tool is it ready to use? A lot of folks figure if they have it it will be there when they need it. This is not the way to be prepared! All tools must be maintained and be in top shape at all times. If not you will be wasting valuable time getting them ready or worst yet the tool fails when used for lack of care. Do you have things ready for the worst? Most people don't and there lies the rub. I will be expanding on this as time allows. If anyone has anything to add or suggest I welcome them to add their thoughts.

 on: June 19, 2018, 08:24:00 PM 
Started by Hiddenone - Last post by Darren
Late to the party but from what I understand you need to purchase their screws for the jig to work properly and they are pricy. Can you verify this?

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